Until recently, the contents of a glass of wine had only been scrutinized for their oenological merits. Lately however, a spate of highly publicized incidents has brought this crisis of counterfeit and fraudulent wine to public attention. In 1998, bottles of 1990 Penfold’s Grange were revealed to be counterfeit, exhibiting typographical errors and inconsistent printing. Approximately 16,000 bottles of Sassicaia, retailing at $100 to $125 a bottle, were identified as fake and seized in Italy in 2000. But perhaps the most renowned and shocking counterfeiting scandal came to light in 2007, when a lawsuit brought by billionaire wine collector William Koch sparked a widespread federal investigation of several notable auction houses, wine collectors, and importers.
One common method of counterfeiting involves replacing the label of a weaker-vintage wine, such as a 1987 Bordeaux, with a label from the same wine produced in a better vintage, such as 1989. (For example, in the past a Château Le Pin 1989, sold for an average auction price of $2,086, Le Pin 1987 averaged $777.) It's one of the simplest ways to produce phony wines, since counterfeiters can copy a label with a readily available quality scanner and printer. The bogus bottles are then resold on the wine market as genuine and can circulate at retail or auctions for years before anyone suspects something is wrong.
In addition to the outright counterfeiting of fine wine, buyers face another potential problem when assessing the purity of a bottle. To preserve the life of some of their wines, some winemakers will remove the cork from the bottle and blend in a small quantity of wine from a newer vintage in a process known as "reconditioning." Although reconditioned wines may have longer shelf lives, some winemakers try to pass off their reconditioned bottles as purely the older vintage.
The problem has grown large enough that the FBI's art fraud squad has been investigating. Counterfeit wines are estimated to account for as much as five percent of the secondary market (Wine Spectator). For centuries, most wineries made little effort to make sure their wines could not be faked. But now, concerned that customers will lose confidence and stop buying, wineries are exploring ways to make sure future bottles can be authenticated.
When the Roman historian Pliny the Elder wrote "in vino veritas" – in wine, there is truth – he must not have been drinking from a counterfeit bottle.
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